You might also be interested in reading about Three Quarter cross stitch.
Hardanger Stich
Hardanger Stich
Hardanger pattern - stage 1
What do u need?
* 6” square of hardanger 22 count fabric
* pearl no 8, 1 ball
* pearl no 5 1 skein
* sizes 22 and 24 tapestry needles
* small wooden embroidery hoop
Hardanger needlework - kloster blocks
hardanger-kloster-blocks Find the centre of your fabric by folding it in half both ways and lightly creasing.
Thread your needle with the thicker No. 5 thread and tie a knot in the end. I know, you've been told never to use a knot! This one is different. It is called an away waste knot and it won't stay in your work, we will cut it off later. For the time being pop your needle through the corner of your fabric, from the right side, leaving the knot on the top surface of your work.
Count up 18 fabric threads from the centre and bring your needle through from the underside at no. 1 on the chart, to begin stitching the first kloster block. Each stitch covers 4 fabric threads.
It is important to follow the numbering on the diagram to ensure that there is the same amount of thread on the back of your work as there is on the front. If you take a shortcut and miss out a number on the diagram your stitches won't hold when you start the cutting process.
Once the first five stitches are in place move on to the second block, positioned at right angles to the first. Reuse hole 10 when you work stitch 11-12 in this block. In a similar manner reuse hole 20 when you start block 3. This is to avoid carrying the thread diagonally across a corner, as it would show in the finished work (especially if it is across an area that will be cut later!)
Continue following the chart to work all the kloster blocks, counting carefully so as to meet up at the beginning again.
Remember that waste knot? Now is the time to snip it off and check that your stitches have anchored the starting thread on the back of the work.
If you find that you run out of thread before completing the kloster blocks please try to finish a whole block before starting a new length. As you stitch with the thread it tends to loose a little of its sheen and it would be noticeable if your block consisted of both old and new thread.
Hardanger needlework - cutting
The next step is cutting and removing some of the fabric threads. For this you need small, sharp, pointed embroidery scissors.
Sometimes students have turned up to my workshops with dressmaking shears or childrens paper scissors, neither of which will be capable of the delicacy needed here.
It is worth investing in a special pair of hardanger scissors with angled blades if you think you will be doing much hardanger needlework.
The most important thing to remember when cutting is to continue breathing. So many students hold their breath at this point I have been worried that some may pass out in the class room!
hardanger-chart-two
Looking at the chart, can you see the red lines inside the kloster blocks? These show you where you need to cut the fabric threads. Basically you always cut along the edge of the block where the stitches go down into the fabric, NEVER parallel to the stitches.
Please count twice, cut once. By this I mean double check you have the right number of fabric threads on the scissors before you close the blades. Then cut all four threads with one snip. If you do happen to cut too many threads it isn't the end of the world, you can take a thread from the edge of your fabric and reweave it through. Time consuming but it works perfectly.
As we are working with coloured thread for this hardanger needlework project you may find small tufts of fabric thread show after you have cut them. Do not worry about these, they will shrink back underneath the kloster blocks when the piece is washed. They would be less noticeable if you were using white thread.
After the cutting is completed you should end up with your work looking like the photo above the chart.
Hardanger needlework - Needleweaving
So far our stitching has been with the thicker thread, now we turn to the thin. All the needleweaving and the lacy square filets will be worked with this thread.
Use the kloster blocks to anchor the thread we don't need to use a waste knot here. I have shown this on the chart by a diagonal line underneath a kloster block.
You will have four fabric threads in each position, forming a grid inside your kloster blocks. Take the first group of four and weave your needle through them, going over two, under two backwards and forwards until the threads are comfortably full of stitches. Don't squeeze too many on or the bar you have made will bend and look untidy. If you keep an idea in your head of how many stitches you use you can repeat this for the remaining bars so that they all match.
This process is called needleweaving. Many hardanger needlework patterns will use this technique but some will have wrapped bars (which we will cover in lesson two of our beginner guide to hardanger).
Work the bars in a diagonal direction by working those coloured red on the chart first. Then turn the work and work a second diagonal row in the opposite direction.
Continue until all the remaining bars are worked.
Square Filets
I have chosen square filets as the decoration for our hardanger needlework piece. These can be worked after all the needleweaving is complete. The other main lacy stitch is a doves eye, which needs to be worked at the same time, so i have left that for lesson two.
The square filet is simply four buttonhole stitches, taken into each corner of the "square hole".
In order to make the fourth stitch look the same as the rest you need to take the needle and thread down over the the thread already leading from that corner.
Run your thread through the back of kloster blocks again, in between square filets.
www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com-> Source
Hardanger pattern - stage 1
What do u need?
* 6” square of hardanger 22 count fabric
* pearl no 8, 1 ball
* pearl no 5 1 skein
* sizes 22 and 24 tapestry needles
* small wooden embroidery hoop
Hardanger needlework - kloster blocks
hardanger-kloster-blocks Find the centre of your fabric by folding it in half both ways and lightly creasing.
Thread your needle with the thicker No. 5 thread and tie a knot in the end. I know, you've been told never to use a knot! This one is different. It is called an away waste knot and it won't stay in your work, we will cut it off later. For the time being pop your needle through the corner of your fabric, from the right side, leaving the knot on the top surface of your work.
Count up 18 fabric threads from the centre and bring your needle through from the underside at no. 1 on the chart, to begin stitching the first kloster block. Each stitch covers 4 fabric threads.
It is important to follow the numbering on the diagram to ensure that there is the same amount of thread on the back of your work as there is on the front. If you take a shortcut and miss out a number on the diagram your stitches won't hold when you start the cutting process.
Once the first five stitches are in place move on to the second block, positioned at right angles to the first. Reuse hole 10 when you work stitch 11-12 in this block. In a similar manner reuse hole 20 when you start block 3. This is to avoid carrying the thread diagonally across a corner, as it would show in the finished work (especially if it is across an area that will be cut later!)
Continue following the chart to work all the kloster blocks, counting carefully so as to meet up at the beginning again.
Remember that waste knot? Now is the time to snip it off and check that your stitches have anchored the starting thread on the back of the work.
If you find that you run out of thread before completing the kloster blocks please try to finish a whole block before starting a new length. As you stitch with the thread it tends to loose a little of its sheen and it would be noticeable if your block consisted of both old and new thread.
Hardanger needlework - cutting
The next step is cutting and removing some of the fabric threads. For this you need small, sharp, pointed embroidery scissors.
Sometimes students have turned up to my workshops with dressmaking shears or childrens paper scissors, neither of which will be capable of the delicacy needed here.
It is worth investing in a special pair of hardanger scissors with angled blades if you think you will be doing much hardanger needlework.
The most important thing to remember when cutting is to continue breathing. So many students hold their breath at this point I have been worried that some may pass out in the class room!
hardanger-chart-two
Looking at the chart, can you see the red lines inside the kloster blocks? These show you where you need to cut the fabric threads. Basically you always cut along the edge of the block where the stitches go down into the fabric, NEVER parallel to the stitches.
Please count twice, cut once. By this I mean double check you have the right number of fabric threads on the scissors before you close the blades. Then cut all four threads with one snip. If you do happen to cut too many threads it isn't the end of the world, you can take a thread from the edge of your fabric and reweave it through. Time consuming but it works perfectly.
As we are working with coloured thread for this hardanger needlework project you may find small tufts of fabric thread show after you have cut them. Do not worry about these, they will shrink back underneath the kloster blocks when the piece is washed. They would be less noticeable if you were using white thread.
After the cutting is completed you should end up with your work looking like the photo above the chart.
Hardanger needlework - Needleweaving
So far our stitching has been with the thicker thread, now we turn to the thin. All the needleweaving and the lacy square filets will be worked with this thread.
Use the kloster blocks to anchor the thread we don't need to use a waste knot here. I have shown this on the chart by a diagonal line underneath a kloster block.
You will have four fabric threads in each position, forming a grid inside your kloster blocks. Take the first group of four and weave your needle through them, going over two, under two backwards and forwards until the threads are comfortably full of stitches. Don't squeeze too many on or the bar you have made will bend and look untidy. If you keep an idea in your head of how many stitches you use you can repeat this for the remaining bars so that they all match.
This process is called needleweaving. Many hardanger needlework patterns will use this technique but some will have wrapped bars (which we will cover in lesson two of our beginner guide to hardanger).
Work the bars in a diagonal direction by working those coloured red on the chart first. Then turn the work and work a second diagonal row in the opposite direction.
Continue until all the remaining bars are worked.
Square Filets
I have chosen square filets as the decoration for our hardanger needlework piece. These can be worked after all the needleweaving is complete. The other main lacy stitch is a doves eye, which needs to be worked at the same time, so i have left that for lesson two.
The square filet is simply four buttonhole stitches, taken into each corner of the "square hole".
In order to make the fourth stitch look the same as the rest you need to take the needle and thread down over the the thread already leading from that corner.
Run your thread through the back of kloster blocks again, in between square filets.
www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com-> Source
Corded brussels stitch
Corded brussels stitch is the easiest to learn when you are starting needlepoint lace.Thread the tapestry needle with your petal colour and fasten it to the “cordonnet” i.e. the couched thread. Lay a thread across the petal where the line is shown on the pattern and split the double couched thread on the other side of the shape.
Work buttonhole stitches over both the outer cordonnet and the thread stretched across the petal. DO NOT go through the fabric, just lay the stitches on the surface of the film.
Do not pull tightly, you will need to see the loops in order to work the second row. Regularly let your needle drop so that the thread untwists to avoid knots and tangles.
When you reach the outside edge take the thread under the cordonnet and then pass it back in between the doubled thread. Take it across the petal again just below the first line of buttonhole stitches. Take your first stitch of the second row through the outline and under the carried thread. Then work buttonhole stitches into the loops of the first row, taking the needle under the carried thread each time.
When you reach the point where the petal narrows (half way) take your first stitch as before then miss out one or two loops from the previous row before continuing as before to fill the petal with "corded brussells stitch".
When you reach the bottom (or final edge) of the petal slip stitch the corded brussels to the outer cordonnet. If you have a long enough piece of thread you can use this to work buttonhole stitches (corded edge outwards) over the cordonnet all around the petal. Otherwise begin with a new length.
Work five more petals in the same manner. To remove the petals from the backing pad, lift the top layer of fabric and cut the couching stitches. Gently lift the work off the top of the film and pick off any remaining couching threads with tweezers.
Attach three of the petals to the background fabric at the top of the stem. Just catch down the inner points around the stem stitches at the top of the stem (leave most of the petal free). Leave the other three petals to attach later.
The trumpet in double brussells stitch
Trace the small or large trumpet shape as before, and using the colour of your choice lay the cordonnet. We will use a lacier stitch to fill this shape, double brussells.
Tension is important here as we are not using a laid thread. Attach the working thread to the cordonnet and start by taking two buttonhole stitches into the outline, then leave a gap before working another group of two. Continue in this manner across the row.
The second row is worked in the opposite direction, making two stitches into each long loop and missing out the small loops. Continue working back and forth to fill the area. Again decrease where the shape narrows by missing out loops from the previous row.
When the shape is completed, buttonhole just the curvy edges at the end of the trumpet. Fold the trumpet in half and join the straight edges with slip stitch. Then attach the trumpet to the background so it lays on top of the first three petals. Just catch the point of the trumpet to the fabric leaving the rest unattached.
Then stitch the remaining three petals in place so that they cover the first layer.
Stitching the loose leaf
Work a loose leaf in corded brussels as for the petals. Anchor it to the background at the top and bottom in the position of your choice, allowing the leaf to "turn over" in between anchor points.
needlework-tips-and-techniques.com-> source
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Privacy Policy
original-watch. Privacy Statement
What follows is the Privacy Statement for all original-watch weblog (a.k.a. blogs) including all the websites run under the original-watch.
Please read this statement regarding our blogs. If you have questions please ask us via our contact form.
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You may choose to add your email address to our contact list via the forms on our webblog. We agree that we will never share you email with any third party and that we will remove your email at your request. We don’t currently send advertising via email, but in the future our email may contain advertisements and we may send dedicated email messages from our advertisers without revealing your email addresses to them. If you have any problem removing your email address please contact us via our contact form.
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Gifts For Women- Mothers Day Cards
I am one of those girls, by the way who often wonders what to buy for my mother, or my sister or my gal pals on their Birthday or Mothers Day. Shopping for myself is fun, because I know what I want. Here are few gift ideas for women.
Be it your mother, your girlfriend, your gal pal, your sister or daughter, flowers appeal all hearts. So don't forget fresh flowers.
Jewelry adorns women for sure – the most beautiful creation of God. So u can buy ring, bracelets, necklaces, pendants, and earrings
Gift a Make- up kit or a hamper of toiletries.
If she likes cooking, gift her a good recipe book. You can also give her other books if she likes reading.
Women never get tired of apparels. So clothes are a great gift idea for woman.
Accessories like bags and purses, watches, belts, gloves, key chains, sunglasses. Shoes are also a great gift idea. Just be sure its of her size.
Gadgets like cell phone or an Ipod is also a good idea. If your girl prefers pink, then you can choose the gadgets in pink.
You can make a gift basket full of your woman's favorite chocolates and cookies.
Dont forget to send her beautiful cards saying how much she means to you.. Tell her how much you love her . Mother's day is almost here, and here are some lovely free cards for your Mom or friends who are mothers or your wife who is a mother, your sister who is a mother , or any mother you admire.
Free Mothers Day Cards
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Happy Birthday Mom -- Cards For Birthday
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